| At Skater HQ we offer a wide range of parts and services for your inline skates, skateboards and scooters. Simply come down to one of our stores or you can arrange to send your equipment in by post and we will be happy to service your equipment for you. |
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| Fitting Your District Products |
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| Due to the technical nature of the District products we have compiled some instructions to help you install your parts correctly. Please click on the below link to go to the instruction page. |
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| Boot Modifications |
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| Foot Beds: |
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Comfort and performance come from the perfect match between foot and boot. To optimize that match you need a solid foundation.
A Sidas Conform'able footbed is made of a special thermo moldable plastic which is heat molded to the shape of your foot, ensuring perfect contact between foot and boot sole. There are several insoles to choose from ranging in price from $99 to $160.
For those of you who are unable to come to the shop you can buy one of the fantastic Zip Fit pre-molded, stabilized insoles. Gel Heels also help for skaters who get sore heels from doing big gaps and drops.
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| Maintenance |
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| How to rotate your wheels: |
| In every skate company's owners manual there is the same old 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 rotation. In most cases however this system will not give the best performance. Thats because different skating styles wear wheels differently. A real strider will wear the front wheel most and a turner or ski trainer will wear the rear wheel most. |
| So, here's what we do: |
| 1) Examine the wear on your wheels taking note of which wheel is worn most. |
| 2) Remove all the wheels from one skate. |
| 3) Place all the wheels at eye level and on their edge. |
| 4) Replace the biggest wheel in the front or back of your skate depending on which wheel showed most wear. |
| 5) Take care to place the high side, or least used side, to the inside of the skate. |
| 6) Replace the next biggest wheel at the other end Now replace the smallest wheels in the centre. |
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7) This ensures the longest possible wheelbase and the most stability.
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| How to clean your bearings: |
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| 1) Once all bearings are removed from your wheels give them a quick wipe to remove any dirt from the surface of the bearing. |
| 2) Next, locate the C-ring on each bearing that sits in a groove holding the metal shield in place. Carefully remove this ring followed by the shield, exposing the bearings withinin the housing. Some bearings do not use a C ring, rather they use a neoprene gasket to hold the shield in place. With this design you can simply lift the shields off the bearing. |
| 3) Now immerse the entire bearing in a solvent, agitating the solution to loosen any caked on grit. |
| 4) Remove bearings from solvent and dry completely. Do not spin the bearing with compressed air. |
| 5) As soon as the bearings are dry apply fill approximately 25% of the available space in the housing with bearing grease. Grease will protect your bearings best however some skaters prefer to use oil for maximum roll at the expense of durability and protection. |
| 6) To save time for future maintenance, you don't need to replace both of the shields, only the ones on the outside of your wheels, make sure to place the unshielded side into the wheel. . |
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| Frame Modifications |
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| Frame upgrade |
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For aggressive skaters, frame replacement or upgrading is a great way to extend the life of your skates. We have several brands of frames in stock which can be fitted to most boots. Contact us for fitting options and prices. New frames range in price from $75-$160 per pair, installed.
For the recreational skater looking for a more stable position on thier skates, frame alignment is an excellent way to get centered. If you don't feel like you are standing properly on your skates or are experiencing unusual wheel wear contact us for a consultation.
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| Deck Maintenance |
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| Gripping Decks: |
| Bring your deck in for a new grip. We have heaps of colours, patterns and designs or tell us your own. We also have Roofies graphic grips. Of Course we also handle all the best in black as well in widths of up to 10.5 inches. |
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| Get a Grip: |
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| 1) Cut grip to length a couple inches longer than the deck. |
| 2) Peel the backing and place the grip on the nose and tail as the first contact points. Flatten the middle, then smooth out towards the nose and tail. |
| 3) Be sure to push out any air bubbles. |
| 4) Grab a screwdriver and run it firmly over the grip around the edge of the deck to get a neat line. Be careful not to push the grip tape overthe edge of the board. This insures that you have removed any gritty surface from where your knife is going to go. |
| 5) Gently cut the grip along the line with a sharp knife from underneath (see pic) without stopping. Use the scrap grip to sand along the edge. |
| 6) Mount your trucks. |
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7) Go shred.
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| Hardware Maintenance |
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Re-threads
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| No more need to replace your truck just because you have a stripped axel. |
| With our dies, we can rethread it for you. Free service to our registered customers. |
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Changing Kingpins
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| Snapped your kingpin? Read below for how to change it over. If you have a problem give us a call, send your truck plate, and we will fit a new kingpin for $5 not including postage.
Kingpins are wedged tight into the plate to stop movement when you skate.
| 1) To get the kingpin out, rest the truck plate on a solid surface open at the bottom. We use a partly open metal vice. |
| 2) Remove the pin with a hammer |
| 3) Put in the new pin. |
| 4) Make sure the edges fit into the notches in the plate. |
| 5) Use an upside down kingpin to hammer the new pin right in.Sounds easy? it's not. The secret to changing and replacing a kingpin is the way you hold it in the vice. You must allways support the truck a closely to the sides of the kingpin as possible. |
| 6) Sick of hammering on it. Send it to us. |
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